My Lutron Experience

I have three Lutron home automation controllers in my house. They operate the motorized window shades and the exterior landscape lighting. My architect wanted me to have many more of these – to control all of the interior lighting. I vetoed that idea and insisted on regular, “you can buy them at home depot” switches for all my interior circuits. I am so glad I did that!

Here’s my Lutron installation with the covers off:

Three Lutron Automation Processors

The reason the covers are off today is because two of them died in a recent power failure. This happens “often”, this is the third time in nine years of owning these that I’ve had to call the automation company in to replace them.

Maybe you don’t think three times in nine years is “often” – but let me ask you this. When was the last time you replaced your microwave oven because of a power failure? How about your TV? Look around your house at all the equipment these days that has a computer inside it – pretty much every appliance you own has one. How many of them have you ever had to replace simply because the voltage fluctuated during a storm and killed the device?

I’m sure it happens from time-to-time, but the consumer-grade appliance manufacturers know that they would have a very bad reputation if their equipment died all the time in power failures. Lutron? Apparently doesn’t care. These processors must have little or no input voltage protection and any glitch on the power lines burns them out. Then, even if just one of them burns out, you end up having to replace all three because the company is constantly obsoleting old versions of these processors when new ones are released. New ones won’t interoperate with old ones.

It’s outrageously bad engineering and it’s hard not to point out that this bad engineering increases sales of the Lutron devices and the billable-hours of the installation/programming service providers.

I “fixed” the “one failed, but you have to replace all three” dilemma by stocking several additional processors the first time I got hosed by that. Unfortunately, today I am having the last spare installed and the next power-glitch will force an upgrade of all three even if just one dies. I am now investigating front-ending the power inputs on these devices with some server-room grade power conditioning instead.

Never, ever, ever, ever, ever allow anyone to talk you into installing this product in your house.

Why the “new” NIST password recommendation makes sense

The National Institute of Standards and Technology (NIST) recently released a new recommendation on authentication, including best practices for constructing passwords.

DISCLAIMER: I am not a password security expert. But I can do some math.

You are already familiar with the previous/old NIST recommendations because these are the recommendations that drive you crazy:

  • Use upper case and lower case
  • Use numbers
  • Use special characters (!@#$% etc)

One way or another those recommendations have worked their way into almost every system in use today, with the corresponding rules that you curse at when you are setting up a new account.

The new rules say that it’s better to just use some number of words in a phrase. No digits or special characters needed.


Let’s look at the history of password technology and do some math. Don’t be scared – we won’t be doing anything more difficult than raising a number to a power — which, in a throwback to the old days of Fortran, I will represent in this note using ** as in: 2**3 is 8:

2 ** 3 = 2 * 2 * 2 = 8

If I happen to know that your password is only two characters long, perhaps because I heard how many keyclicks there were when you typed it in, and I can guess that (like most people) you picked your password only from lowercase letters from a to z, then how many passwords would I have to try to guess yours? The answer is that there are 26 letters to choose from, therefore:

N = 26 ** 2 = 676

There are only 676 two-character lowercase passwords I have to try if I want to search all the possibilities to break your password. I can break your password by simply trying every combination “aa”, “ab”, “ac” … “zx”, “zy”, “zz” until I find the one that works.

In the old days passwords were usually limited to 8 characters. This limit can be traced all the way back to late 1970s Unix implementations of the DES password encryption algorithms. In the early days of the web most web site servers were running on Unix boxes that still used the same password code from the 1970s and often still had the eight character limit.

Obviously, 676 passwords won’t take very long for someone to try (by computer), which is why password software usually required you to use more characters – often times making you use an eight character password. A dirty little secret of some of those older systems is that they’d let you set a longer password, but in fact only ever computed based on the first eight. The old NIST recommendations were written during a time when that was still a consideration.

If I still know that you only used lowercase letters and there is a maximum of 8 characters, there are:

N = 26 ** 8 = approximately 208 billion

password possibilities.

When crackers “steal password files” from hacked web sites, what they get is not the passwords themselves, but rather their encrypted forms. This looks like a bunch of gibberish characters. When a web site checks your password, it asks you for your password, encrypts it, and sees if it gets the same gibberish it got back when you first set your password.

Web sites generally never store your original password and there is no way to recover the original password from this encrypted gibberish. Thus, when the bad guys steal a “password” file what they really have to do is just guess every possible password, putting each guess through the encryption software, until they find one that matches the gibberish string they have gotten their hands on.

So we can see the advantage of an 8 character password, instead of a 2 character password, is that they will have to try roughly 208 billion guesses to find your password. Technically, on average, they will have to try half of that before they get lucky and find yours, but for the rest of this memo I will ignore that factor of 2 because it’s not really significant and just clutters the discussion.

When computers were slower, running the DES algorithm 208 billion times would take a long enough that it wasn’t much of a threat. The calculations could take weeks, but as computers got faster and faster that number gradually came down and with modern machines this is now a practical method of attack.

This is why the old password recommendations suggested that you use more characters than just lowercase a to z. If, for example, you randomly picked from uppercase and lowercase characters, there would be 52 possibilities for each position in your password, and the number of guesses required to crack your password went up dramatically:

N = 52 ** 8 = 53.4 TRILLION

Simply by adding upper case into the equation the number of possible passwords increases by a factor of 256 (those of you who are insightful with math will note that we doubled the choices – from 26 to 52, and since there are 8 password characters the possibilities increased by a factor of 2 ** 8 = 256)

If digits (another 10 possible characters) and special characters (!@#$% etc) are added, the possible choices go up to 80 or more. Let’s take 80 possible characters and see what we get:

N = 80 ** 8 = 1677 TRILLION

That looks like a lot of possibilities. And it could be even higher because there are actually more than 80 choices of possible characters people could use in their passwords. But there are some problems. In reality humans get annoyed by all those rules and usually pick passwords that aren’t really randomly selected from all possible characters and they do other things that reduce the possible number of passwords that have to be guessed.

Let’s go back to the upper and lower case combinations (and ignore digits and special characters for now). I said there were

N = 52 ** 8 = 53.4 TRILLION

possible combinations for choosing 52 characters (upper and lower case a to z) eight times. But when most people see this message:

Password must contain at least one upper case character

what do they do in reality?

They take their lame password, and capitalize one letter of it to get past this rule.

How many combinations of passwords are there, if as a bad guy I am reasonably assured that your password only has one uppercase character? Now instead of 52 possibilities for each character, there are still only 26 possibilities, and then there are 8 choices for which one of the positions is going to be upper case.  Therefore, instead of:

N = 52 ** 8 = 53.4 TRILLION

possibilities, there are really only:

N = 26 ** 8 * 8 = 1.6 TRILLION

A similar problem occurs with the digits and special character rules. Many people just substitute numbers for letters in a fairly predictable way, e.g., using the digit zero for the letter “o”, and the digit 3 for the letter “e”, and similar things like that. We all do this, thus many passwords in the real world look like these:


The bad guys know that people do this, and when they write their guessing software they don’t have to go through all of the character possibilities. The real number of strings they have to guess is much, much, lower than the simple exponentiation math would imply. This knowledge dramatically decreases the number of possibilities that have to be computed to try to crack your password, and the sophisticated cracking software incorporates knowledge such as “try ordinary words but substitute the number 3 for e” and similar tendencies.

Over time the eight character limit went away, so longer passwords became possible, and many web sites will allow you to have fairly long passwords but still encouraged you to use all sorts of random characters in an attempt to make that exponentiation math work out to a large number.

But people still pick bad passwords because a truly random password like “x@8Q-99!va@:d” is just impossible to remember; no one picks passwords like that.

The new recommendation from NIST takes that into account, and instead recommends that you just pick a phrase that you can remember and no one else would know. This assumes that modern password systems can accept much longer passwords – which most can (it is likely that there is no practical limit in most software these days, though sometimes the web designers impose limits on the login screens).

So let’s look at some math. Suppose you picked a four word phrase from the vocabulary of an 8 year old child. How many passwords are possible?

According to various studies, the average 8 year old native speaker has a vocabulary of about 10000 words. This means that there are:

N = 10000 ** 4 = 10,000 TRILLION

This number is already 6 times higher than the 80 character, fully-random, 8 character calculation, and keep in mind that we already debunked that math as overly generous because no real human being ever actually picks those gibberish characters randomly. This implies that the advantage of the four word random phrase is far greater than “just” a factor of six we just calculated here.

Most adults will have even larger vocabularies, in the neighborhood of 20,000 to 35,000 words, so the number of four-word phrases you might pick for your password becomes even larger.

Now, of course, people are still people, and they might still pick bad passwords even if they are made out of multiple words:

this is my password
I hate password rules
you can't guess this

and so forth. But if you pick a password that:

  • is selected from a wide range of words
  • uses at least one “unusual” word
  • isn’t obviously based on something people might know about you
  • but is still easy for you to remember

then simply combining four words into a phrase and using that as your password is likely to be more secure than eight characters of gibberish. So, as systems around the web start getting updated to conform to the new password recommendations, hopefully you’ll be able to use passwords like these:

lemon blue flying campfire
tree eating pickle moon
disintegrating alien cheese sundae

It would be best if you tried to include some unusual words; remember, you are trying to make the bad guys have to guess from as many words as possible. Though, even if you stick to “just words an eight year old would know” there are roughly 10,000 choices and that already makes your password harder to guess than a realistic eight character “old style” password. Personally I can type pretty well, so “disintegrating alien cheese sundae” is something I could potentially envision using as a password (ooops, ok, not now that I’ve published this haha).

The beauty of the new NIST recommendations is that most people should be able to come up with memorable passwords that are difficult to guess and draw from between 10,000 and 20,000 words for each word in the phrase. The math is inexorable: there are more combinations for these passwords than there are for shorter gibberish passwords.

Of course, if you pick an obvious phrase that a bad guy can guess, that’s your fault. Don’t set your new password to “I love my cat” if everyone knows you love your cat.

If you are paying attention, you will note that the new NIST recommendations are somewhat equivalent to saying “hey, just use a longer password”. So my example of “disintegrating alien cheese sundae” is actually a password of length 33 (including the spaces). Thus in some sense the NIST recommendation isn’t really anything new or earth-shattering. We already know that every time you add one character to a password, it gets harder to guess by a factor related to how many possible characters there are. In fact, a 33 character random password made out of only lowercase letters would have:

N = 26 ** 33 = an enormously large number (10 to the 46th)

possibilities. But, of course, no one is going to have a 33 character random password because it would be impossible to remember. So the NIST recommendation is actually a sneaky way to get us to have longer passwords, at the cost of choosing from a less-than-random set of characters (i.e., those that combine into actual words). There’s no magic here, it’s simply the observation that the longer the password is the better it is, and if we have to give up some randomness (fewer character choices than totally random) to get to this longer password length, the math still works out favorably.

I’m looking forward to getting rid of my ridiculous eight character gibberish passwords and replacing them with easier to remember phrases, though I imagine it may take many years for the tedious old NIST suggestions to become thoroughly debunked and for the newer methodology to find its way into account password rules.

If you’d like to dig deeper into the details of how encryption works, and some other privacy and security topics, here’s a good place to start:


Netgate SG-4860 installed

Finally got rid of the last soekris/pfsense router in my empire. This sg-4860 replaces a net6501-70 that had 8 intel interfaces. I “need” (well, use) five, and have plans for a sixth subnet. The Netgate box has six interfaces so it suffices both for the current needs and the planned one-additional subnet. I don’t anticipate ever going beyond the sixth subnet, and if I do there’s always VLAN trunking options to get more interfaces out of the existing box (and/or multi-hop routing via a secondary router)

Installation went without any glitches. Still running pfsense in basically the same configuration; just had to update the interface names in the configuration XML file.

Now the question is what to do with an old, but perfectly functional, nanoBSD/freeBSD box…

Ordered replacement for my last Soekris router

I am down to my last (and largest configuration) net 6501 pfsense router, and just ordered a replacement for it from netgate. I’ve already replaced two other routers in my world (at other locations) with netgate products. The nice thing about them is they are directly supported with pfsense, so it’s just an easy way to go once you’ve decided to run pfsense.

This last one, at the hilltop, has been up now for over 454 days:







The router is (obviously) on a UPS. I’ve had the router for even much longer than that; I’m not entirely sure what made me reboot it over a year ago – probably a software upgrade.

Alas, it is time to replace it, primarily because I want to be able to run the newest versions of pfsense that no longer support 32-bit platforms. This box can run in 64-bit mode, but the board itself lacks one specific feature the generic freeBSD 64-bit build requires. I know I can still run pfsense by taking the stock distribution and wedging in a custom kernel build, but it just seems wiser to replace this box with something newer and fully supported anyway.

I took the easy (albeit expensive-ish) way out and ordered a netgate SG-4860-1U. I use 5 different networks in my configuration (only four made it into the screen capture) and though I could certainly achieve that via “router on a stick” with VLAN trunking and a suitable switch, I prefer to have a router with true multiple NICs on general principles.

Not sure what I will do with the soekris box when the new netgate gear arrives; it makes a great Unix freeBSD sandbox but I really have no use for such a thing. Maybe I can turn it into some ridiculous lego contraption controller someday 🙂

Amazon AWS Route53 Region: us-east-1

This is one of those things that seems hard to find even though it is in fact documented, so I thought I’d post this note in the hope that someday it will pop up on someone’s google and be helpful.

So, here are some keywords of note: This is about Route53, the DNS service in Amazon AWS, and the “region” field. The way I ran into it I was using the DynamicDNS feature in my router (pfsense), which can directly update a Route53 record. But it wants the ZoneID in this form:


I had a ZoneID — they look something like “Z2X8NGLIQTGFO4” (I’ve altered this from what my real ZoneID is of course). But I didn’t know what my region is. In general “my” (best/default) region is “us-west-2” but that didn’t work (generated a complaint about an invalid region). I couldn’t find any way to reveal what the correct region for my Route53 service was.

The reason is … all Route53 services are in us-east-1. That is in fact documented but you really have to dig into the AWS docs to find it if you didn’t already know where to look. So, since it took me a while to find, I wrote this note, in the hope that someone else might stumble onto it via google and get to this answer more easily than I did.

It’s extremely frustrating because the user interface will show you the ZoneID but seems to have no information at all on the Region. It would have been nice if they threw that in the info panel even though the answer is always just us-east-1. Oh well.

Goodnight Soekris

Sadly, Soekris is shutting down:

Soekris Engineering, Inc.

April 24, 2017
Due to declining sales, limited resources available to design new products, and increased competition from Asia, Soekris Engineering, Inc. has suspended operations in the USA as of today.

It has been our pleasure to serve our customers over the last 16 years. We are proud that we provided reliable, low-power communications computers Made in the USA to many markets worldwide.

Thank you for your business.

I built several pfsense routers with various soekris boxes and they’ve all been running flawlessly for years. I just looked at my router at the hilltop and it has been running for 381 days without a reboot (this router is on a UPS for no especially good reason but it does allow for long uptime runs).

The box has no fan, no moving parts (the filesystem is a nanobsd configuration on a CF card), it’s rack mountable, and it has six ethernet ports (I added a 4-port PCI card). It’s awesome.

The pfsense folks sell hardware (Netgate) now customized with pfsense right out of the box. I have one of their boxes in another location and it works perfectly well too, though I wish they’d support a nanobsd configuration (for the read-only filesystem and the alternating/two-boot-slice concept for updates).  Eventually I’ll change out the soekris boxes for newer gear; but for now … 381 days  of uptime and counting.


Oldest “Neil Webber” reference

Inspired by finding some thirty-year-old code of mine online, I wondered if there were any even older references… and I found one!

In the summer of 1979, having just graduated high school, I worked on a macro intepreter for the Initial Graphics Exchange Specification while I was a summer intern at the National Bureau of Standards (now called NIST). I wrote an interpreter for the MACRO statements that were proposed as part of that specification.

I found several copies of the full version 1.0 IGES specification online. This one is in text form:

Being text you can easily search it for “Neil Webber” and find my name. 🙂

The actual design of the MACRO language syntax is a hoot and reflects the FORTRAN language practices of the time. For example, variable typing is determined by the first letter of the variable name.

I didn’t design this language syntax all I did was implement a processor that could run the macros and generated IGES statements from them. I vaguely remember that I called the program “bigmac” because it was a macro processor and it was “big” (meaning 64K-ish). It ran on a PDP11 under v6 Unix.

The IGES 1.0 document was published in 1980. This is the oldest reference to any of my work that I can find – partly because I’m pretty sure this would be the oldest bit of my work that was ever referenced anywhere.

I have not, unfortunately, been able to find any copies of the source code of the macro processor. I’m pretty sure NBS released it because part of the point of asking me to implement it as a summer intern was to show that the MACRO capability wasn’t “too hard”. I’m sure my program was probably an embarrassing mess of bad technique; on the other hand, having a summer intern implement the MACRO processor probably helped make the argument that it wasn’t “too hard” to do. 🙂

Thirty year old code almost still compiles (and does still work!)

Thirty years ago, in February of 1987, I published some code of mine on net.sources:









There is so much deliciousness in this old post, including evidence that my affinity for the word “actually” goes a long way back.

Because I was a hardcore Amiga nerd back then (as opposed to simply now being an all-around hardcore nerd), I also submitted the program for inclusion in the “Fred Fish Amiga Source Disks” that he (Fred Fish) used to curate. It was included on disk #66 and still available as “MallocTest” online here:

For reasons surpassing understanding, I decided to download that code, unpack the archive (that itself took some research), and see if it still compiles and works.


Well, almost. It generated over 40 warnings on my Mac, mostly related to modern declarations of C library functions vs the mismatched (if even present at all) declarations in the code.

It did generate one fatal error – one of my functions does not return a value but is not declared void. I’m pretty sure that’s because the “void” type wasn’t universal back then, and in any case it was common practice to just fall out the bottom of what were implicitly void functions (that had been implicitly declared as “int”).

So, I had to fix that to get it to compile; here’s the diff that made the thirty-year old compile:

> void add_to_events (struct memevent *);
< add_to_events (m)
> void add_to_events (m)

With that change, it still compiles and works! The code itself is a time capsule of everything that was wrong with software development back in the late 80’s, including most importantly the fact that the malloc/free library on a given machine might have a bug in it that this feeble test could uncover (which, apparently, it did, though I have since forgotten which platform I was researching malloc/free problems on at the time).

Presented, for your amusement:


FeelTech FY3224S Grounding Modification

I have one of those cheap FeelTech FY3224S  (FY3200S 24Mhz version) function generators. Sometimes sold under different brand names, including “Moo Hoo” and no-name at all, and sold by  “banggood” (not making that up!), amazon, and other online stores.

There is an extensive thread about these on that includes this post about getting a shock from the device:

I was just using my Feeltech FY3224S and felt something biting me…the culprits turned out to be electrons…I was getting a shock.  When I measured AC voltage with a multi-meter from any of the ground points on the Feeltech (e.g. the outside of the BNC connectors) to AC ground, I had around 19vrms

Here’s another blog referencing this same problem: He measured 82V peak-to-peak. On my device I measured 45V rms or so with nothing connected to the outputs, and measuring between the BNC grounds and earth ground. As all of these write-ups point out, there isn’t enough current to be dangerous; you “just” get a tingle. The problem is caused by the use of a switched-mode power supply not properly implemented for use with floating DC outputs (which this device has).

The best, but most complex, fix is to rip out the switched-mode power supply and replace it with a linear supply suited for floating-DC output configurations.

An easier solution, which many others have also done, is simply to tie the DC grounds to earth ground. In other words, don’t let the DC outputs float. I decided to do that, with a switch enabling me to go back to the original (floating) configuration if ever needed for some specific reason.

The eevblog thread is full of examples of people doing exactly what I did, so it’s not anything new. I’m just documenting it here on the assumption someone might find it useful anyway.

The original back of my generator looked like this:

You will note that the A/C input is two-prong and is not polarized.

I had a so-called “mickey-mouse” (C5/C6) power inlet that doesn’t take up much more space than the original two-prong inlet. I enlarged the opening as necessary with a rasp to accommodate the three-prong inlet. I also had a suitably-sized SPDT round rocker switch (SPST would have sufficed) and mounted it as shown below:


The idea of mounting it there is that the ground symbol already present serves as the label for the down-position of the switch; I wired the switch so that when it was down the BNC grounds would in fact be grounded to the earth ground. If you are wondering why the C5/C6 connector is sometimes called “mickey mouse” take a closer look at the above picture and you should be able to figure it out.

This picture shows the inside wiring:

I added the green wires going from the ground on the power inlet to one side of the SPDT switch, and from the center (pole) to the ground lugs on the back-side BNC connectors. But what about the front connectors? Well, all the DC grounds on this device are all connected together, so grounding these back here grounds them all. Obviously, the same observation leads to the conclusion that I did not need to tie both ground lugs together back here; just connecting to one or the other would have been sufficient. However, these two connectors are hooked up to the main board by two separate wire assemblies each with its own separate plug/jack, so by wiring both grounds here the grounding will still be effective even if one of those plugs works its way loose someday. But, realistically, that green connection between the two BNC ground lugs is superfluous.

In the original configuration the input power was not polarized; consequently sometimes the front panel switch was interrupting the hot A/C lead and sometimes it was interrupting the neutral A/C lead, depending on how you plugged the unit into the wall. A three-prong plug is obviously inherently polarized, and I made sure to hook up the power inlet such that the hot side went to the switch so that the input power would be fully cut off at the switch when the device is off (vs the circuit being interrupted only on the return/neutral leg).

I buzzed out the connections to make sure I knew which one was which:

This shows that the connections, when viewed from the back of the mickey-mouse connector, match up with the connections when viewing the plug face-on (the picture shows the not-connected configuration). From there I looked up which prong in an outlet was hot vs neutral. I was reasonably certain I knew this but looked it up again anyway. I carefully labeled and checked my approach 17 times to make sure I wasn’t confusing myself between the “outlet left/right” view and what I would see when soldering the back of the connector.

Obligatory safety disclaimer: don’t try any of this if you aren’t knowledgeable and skilled with 110VAC circuits. I’m not even going to tell you which one of the prongs is hot vs neutral because if you need me to tell you that, you probably shouldn’t be doing this!

Once I wired up the 110V inputs everything was ready to go back together. Here is is all buttoned up:

I used my label maker with a black-on-clear cartridge to add the FLOAT label at the top of the switch. The ground symbol already there serves adequately as a reminder for the other position. I didn’t quite get the FLOAT label lined up exactly right. I could fix it, but the switch is going to stay in the “ground” position 99.99% of the time, and all this is in the back of the unit, and only some of my overly OCD friends will notice or care. It stays as is.

With everything buttoned back up I tested the grounding:

This is showing 600 microvolts with the rear switch in the ground position. I should mention that the other multimeter lead was hooked up to a convenient ground elsewhere in my lab set up and that ground was coming from a different wall outlet. Many of my circuits are “home run” back to the panel so there might in fact have been a hundred feet (or more) of romex between these two ground connections. So a non-zero ground potential difference doesn’t surprise me, if we consider “600 microvolts” to be “non-zero” (and not a meter artifact either).

In the original, floating, configuration we get 48 volts:

That will tingle! Obviously the switch will usually be left in the grounded position and if I need a floating function generator I’ll just have to be careful, or spring for a “real” piece of kit instead of this $60 cheap, but rather useful, hack piece of equipment.

One last point, as mentioned in the eevblog threads and elsewhere. The USB port on this device is not ground-isolated. So if you want to float the device (the original configuration), AND you have a computer plugged into the USB port, AND if your computer is grounded (which it won’t be if you have a laptop running off a battery), then the USB ground will de-float the generator output. I suppose it’s also possible that if your computer is floating then the 45 volt “tingle” might make it to your laptop? Ick. In any case, it’s something to be aware of.

I did buy a USB isolator board from Adafruit. This can be used externally if I ever need to float this generator AND have the USB hooked up; alternatively I may explore permanently installing it into the device on general principles. The primary use for the USB port is for defining custom waveforms, which is something I don’t have any immediate need to do. So for now the USB isolation goes onto the “to-do” list and in the meantime I’ve got a function generator that will no longer “tingle” me unless I want it to.

Update: FY2300H

There is another version of the generator out now, the FY2300H (model numbers go backwards? lol!). A 60MHz version is more expensive than my 24MHz version: $330 vs around $90 for mine, but also obviously can provide faster waveforms. Here’s one at Amazon:

They seem to be available at varying prices for other speeds at AliExpress. The cheapest is $80 for a 6MHz version, and I found links for $130 for a 25MHz version though they were out of stock as I write this.

Note this interesting broken-english description:

With the new design of power supply, the utility model eliminates the disadvantage of small amplitude signal interference of the power supply of the hand-held instrument. (10mV small signal still has the perfect signal feature)

and as you can see from the pictures, it has an external wall-wart power supply. Presumably they provide one that is implemented properly and thus fixes the AC mains leakage problem of the power supply built into the FY3200 series. If I didn’t already have my other unit I’d probably buy one of these, even at the higher price (which will likely come down over time if you wait) rather than perform the modifications shown here, especially since that would give me a generator that could DC-float without AC mains leakage whereas the grounding modification only fixes the leakage when you aren’t floating the generator outputs.